If you're like us, you'll start to wonder, after three or four restaurant meals, why the heaps of gorgeous vegetables you see in the stores and the markets near the apartment don't seem to make their way onto the plate.  "The French don't like to pay for vegetables when they go out" was how one French friend explained it to us.  Lately, though, this has been changing.  More and more restaurants, including many of the ones we recommend in the "Welcome Book" that awaits you in the apartment, are giving vegetables, if not a starring role, then at least an interesting supporting one.  In August Le Monde ran a long article about Joël Thiébault, who grows and supplies vegetables to some of the finest restaurants in Paris.  He raises around 2,000 kinds of vegetables, including many antique varieties that he single-handedly brought back into cultivation.  Think heirloom tomatoes, artichokes, carrots, beets ... it's clear this master gardener is on a mission.